Every year during the week of my birthday, we head to a little island that’s 13 miles away, or a 35-minute fast ferry ride, from the mainland. Block Island is not only a treat, but a retreat…like going back in time. The layers of stress peel off with every swell underneath the ferry’s bow.
We each pack a bag, including one for Betty, eager to return to this quaint island only seven miles long and three miles wide. The architecture is of a past era, and there’s not a chain restaurant or store in sight—only independent stores packed with one-of-a-kind buys, quality apparel, bags made of reclaimed sails, and other goodies. We make reservations at a popular dog-friendly bed and breakfast, usually a week before, at the Gothic Inn on Dodge Street, a cozy cottage with strikingly tall gables, conveniently located near the main grocery store, shops, beach, and restaurants all within walking distance.
Stay – Although we make our reservations without much notice, the owner of the Gothic kindly accommodate us. The back yard has a breathtaking view of the island. Showering al fresco, and with a view, is an added treat. The Gothic is a landmark with its high gables and a row of pink Adirondack chairs in the front yard. Sometimes you’ll find the owner in one of those chairs sharing stories of life on the island.
Eat – When you’re hungry, you don’t have to walk far. After checking in, we head to Poor People’s Pub on Ocean Avenue, about a half mile down the road. The covered picnic tables feel intimate enough, and little Betty scores the best seat under the table getting handouts from both of us. We dine on some of the freshest, artful dishes. Their caprese salad appetizer is laden with heirloom tomatoes, super fresh mozzarella, basil, and pesto. Their lobster pizza is packed with fresh pieces of whole lobster and a pizza dough that’s so good that Betty doesn’t score many pizza bones. We go back numerous times during our trip. The vibe at night is fun with classic tunes playing. The adjacent cornhole match provides additional entertainment. Their pizza is first-rate. I went for their caprese version since the appetizer was such a hit, and I crafted one of my own on yet another visit. I also had to get my lobster roll fix, and they serve a good one.
Another great pizza place and dog-friendly patio, is Aldo’s on Weldon’s Way that runs parallel to Water Street. You’ll also find bikes and mopeds to rent along the street.
A great and inexpensive lobster roll can be found at Rebecca’s Take Out on Water Street. I love their peppery seasoning. Once you order at the window, grab a table as the outside picnic tables can fill up fast. Any place with outdoor seating is a safe bet that your pup is allowed to hoover up dropped crumbs. Stuff your backpack with little bottles of white as a lobster roll pairs nicely with wine. Or take your rolls to Ocean View park, and eat at the gazebo at the top of the hill, see below. Rebecca’s also serves a good breakfast.
I love the very cozy back deck of the National Hotel, the huge white hotel at the northern end of Water Street, where you can enjoy fine dining with your dog on comfy couches by the fire pits, and I love the fancy dog watering station at the front entrance that just oozes dog-friendly. I love their lobster fettuccine in a sherry cream sauce with a good helping of claws. Last year on my birthday, we really combed the island, and before we boarded the ferry, we had a drink at the National while a pooped pup curled up on my lap and snored.
The Harborside Inn also on Water Street has a huge front porch with a dog-friendly wicker section that overlooks the harbor. The caprese salad with avocado slices and lobster quesadilla is excellent. I’m sure the ferries have made a complete roundtrip to and from the mainland by the time we leave.
Shop – Aaaand there’s the shopping. When you step off the ferry, the first store you stumble upon is directly across the street. The dog-friendly Star Department Store on Water Street has everything—tanks for the hot sun, sweatshirts for the cool nights, blankets for the beach, footwear, hats, accessories, fun stuff for the kids, and bags to contain it all. I was looking at clogs when a young clerk walked over to Betty and volunteered her dogsitting services if I needed it. Oh how I wish I lived on the island. I’d hire her knowing that Betty wasn’t sitting at the door whining if we wanted to go out.
Water Street is packed with shops, each with their own fare. A must is Wave, where you’ll find quality sweatshirts and surfwear. I love that the shopowner recognizes Betty year after year. He thinks she’s a cutie, and called her the unofficial mayor. Every year I buy a cool sweatshirt from him. There’s several shops that let Betty peruse their lower shelves, Block Island Trading Company, Rags, to name a few.
Explore – The Island offers plenty for those who want to stroll around off the beaten path. Just off of Water Street from the roundabout, there’s a sign that reads “Ocean View—walkers only” at the beginning of a secluded path. Walk up the path to Ocean View Pavillon, a gazebo at the top of the hill, that offers expansive views of the island and beaches. This is a perfect place to spread a blanket and have a picnic. There’s a path that leads down the hill to a secluded beach just south of the popular and crowded Ballard’s beach.
Another must-see in the opposite direction from the roundabout on Spring Street is Abrams Animal Farm—a petting zoo—which is home to a camel, a yak, alpacas, an emu, a zonkey, a sassy pony (above), and other exotic animals. Renting a bicycle makes the island very accessible from the North lighthouse to the Southeast lighthouse with secluded beaches and restaurants located on the west side of the island.
Swim – Beaches are free and many are dog-friendly. Besides the beach mentioned above, take a quick walk down the street from the Gothic, and you’ll find a sandy path on the left that leads to a perfect strip of beach called Kid Beach. The water is calm and shallow, ideal for a little water-resistent frenchie.
Sometimes we accumulate so much stuff that we rent a locker by the ferries. If you want to spend the remaining hours virtually hands-free before boarding the evening ferry, this is a convenient option.
This isn’t a complete list as there are so many more dog-friendly places to eat, shop, explore, and swim…I’ll share those in a later post.
the foodie and the dog 